1480’s Gown
Reproduction of a late 1400’s woman’s costume, based primarily on Domenico Ghirlandaio’s paintings of Giovanna Tornabuoni circa1488. Made for an advanced draping/patterning class, for the theoretical purpose of use in a theatrical period piece. I did not ultimately have time to make the surcote (sleeveless outer-most dress) during the course of this class.
The bodice is structured with steel boning in order to support the performer and achieve a consistent silhouette, though in reality there was no type of corsetry in this period.
For the sleeves, I wanted to have the experience of making real slashing and puffing, so I made a sort of cropped under-sleeve to puff out through the slashed over-sleeve (cropped to conserve fabric).
My favorite part of this process (after draping which is probably my #1) was the cartridge pleating. I had never done cartridge pleats before; it was very enjoyable and wasn’t nearly as time consuming as I had expected.

Ghirlandaio

Ghirlandaio

Boticelli - reference for Gammura (cote)

Bartolommeo - reference for Gammura (cote)
Draping the boned bodice base (front)
Draping the boned bodice base (back)
Draping the second layer bodice (front)
Draping the second layer bodice (back)
Flat lining the "fashion fabric" [it's muslin] to baby flannel, over a curved surface
Hand-basting the flat-lined layers together
Faux chemise piece is attached, and side-front bodice pieces attach and get piped together with the other layers
Sleeve sloper pattern
Base sleeve mock-up (cropped)

Faux chemise sleeve paper pattern
Faux chemise sleeve attached onto base sleeve
Outer sleeve paper pattern
Facing and cutting slashes on the outer sleeves
Faced slashes
Testing the sleeve puffs' sizes and arrangement
Center front skirt gathers, hand sewn like tiny cartridge pleats
1st method of cartridge pleating
1st method of cartridge pleating
2nd method of cartridge pleating
Comparing the shapes of the two cartridge pleat methods
Comparing the shapes of the two cartridge pleat methods
Comparing the shapes of the two cartridge pleat methods